{"id":64041,"date":"2012-01-05T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2012-01-05T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/kentyasam.com.tr\/wp\/?p=64041"},"modified":"2012-01-05T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2012-01-05T00:00:00","slug":"golmarmara-dan-sindirgi-ya","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/kentyasam.com.tr\/wp\/2012\/01\/05\/golmarmara-dan-sindirgi-ya\/","title":{"rendered":"G\u00f6lmarmara’dan S\u0131nd\u0131rg\u0131’ya…"},"content":{"rendered":"\u0093\u00d6m\u00fcr biter yol bitmez\u0094 s\u00f6z\u00fc san\u0131r\u0131m bizim gibi gezginler i\u00e7in s\u00f6ylenmi\u015f. Ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz y\u0131l ilkbaharda ba\u015flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z gezilerimizi, k\u0131\u015f bast\u0131rana kadar s\u00fcrd\u00fcrd\u00fck. Son gezimizi ekim ay\u0131nda Domani\u00e7\u0092in kay\u0131n ormanlar\u0131na yapm\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. Onun \u00fczerinden yakla\u015f\u0131k d\u00f6rt ay ge\u00e7mi\u015f. \r
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Zeminde ya\u011fmur ve \u00e7amur olunca \u00e7ad\u0131r kurmak s\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131 yarat\u0131yor. Biz de durur muyuz? G\u00fcn\u00fcbirlik gezilerimize ba\u015fl\u0131yoruz. De\u011fi\u015fen bir \u015fey yok; yine erken saatlerde yola \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yoruz, gezinin tad\u0131na varana kadar geziyoruz ve hava iyice karard\u0131ktan sonra \u0130zmir\u0092e d\u00f6n\u00fcyoruz.\r
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Gezilerimizde genellikle ara\u00e7 kiral\u0131yoruz. Bu kez nas\u0131l olduysa Engin Yavuz Cuma g\u00fcn\u00fc arad\u0131 ve kendi arac\u0131yla beni ve Aykut\u0092u al\u0131p \u015f\u00f6yle bir tur ataca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 s\u00f6yledi. H\u00fcrol De\u011fdelen bu geziye kat\u0131lamad\u0131, yoldan arad\u0131k, \u015fakala\u015ft\u0131k, yani varl\u0131\u011f\u0131 yoktu ama yol boyunca ad\u0131 s\u00fcrekli ge\u00e7ti durdu. Bizim g\u00fcler y\u00fczl\u00fc, kahkaha fabrikas\u0131 arkada\u015f\u0131m\u0131z… \r
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Sabah erkenden bulu\u015ftuk, hava \u00e7ok karanl\u0131k ve farlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 yakarak gidiyoruz. Bornova\u0092dan \u0130zmir – Ankara karayoluna \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda hava hala karanl\u0131k. Cumartesi olmas\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131n ara\u00e7 trafi\u011fi bir anda yo\u011funla\u015fmaya ba\u015flad\u0131. Kemalpa\u015fa, Armutlu, Spil Da\u011f\u0131 sapa\u011f\u0131 ve Ba\u011fyurdu\u0092nu geride b\u0131rak\u0131yoruz. \r
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Evden kahvalt\u0131 etmeden \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k. Turgutlu\u0092da \u00e7orba i\u00e7mek art\u0131k bir gelenek haline geldi. Eski ad\u0131yla Kasaba\u0092n\u0131n \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131ndan Borsa Lokantas\u0131\u0092na uzand\u0131k. Mekan yine dolu. Hava so\u011fuk i\u00e7eride bir masaya ili\u015ftik ve me\u015fhur kelle pa\u00e7a \u00e7orbas\u0131n\u0131 i\u015ftahla i\u00e7tik.\r
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Engin Yavuz \u00e7ocukluk y\u0131llar\u0131n\u0131 bu b\u00f6lgede ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi i\u00e7in iyi biliyor. Salihli\u0092ye geldi\u011fimizde s\u00f6ze girdi: \r
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\u0093\u0130zmir ile Salihli aras\u0131nda tarlalar giderek azal\u0131yor, fabrikalar h\u0131zla \u00e7o\u011fal\u0131yor. Bu g\u00fczergahtan her ge\u00e7i\u015fimizde de\u011fi\u015fikli\u011fin ne denli h\u0131zl\u0131 oldu\u011funa tan\u0131k oluyoruz. \u00dclkemiz i\u00e7in iyi ve gerekli, bizim gibi do\u011fa tutkunlar\u0131 i\u00e7in \u00fcz\u00fcc\u00fc geli\u015fmeler bunlar. Zeytinliklerin, \u00fcz\u00fcm ba\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n, bu\u011fday tarlalar\u0131n\u0131n fabrikalara, depolara, konutlara d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fmesine katlanam\u0131yorum.\u0094<\/i>\r
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Sa\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda zirvesi puslu Bozda\u011f; ya\u011fan hafif karla bembeyaz. \u0130lk kar sular\u0131 ovaya ula\u015fm\u0131\u015f bile. Dereler \u00e7aylar art\u0131k isteksiz de\u011fil, co\u015fkuyla ak\u0131yor…\r
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Salihli de g\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fcl\u00fc, kalabal\u0131k, il\u00e7e olma \u00f6zelliklerini h\u0131zla yitiren bir yerle\u015fim yeri. Organize Sanayi B\u00f6lgesi\u0092nin i\u00e7inden sola G\u00f6lmarmara yoluna y\u00f6neliyoruz. Salihli-G\u00f6lmarmara aras\u0131 36 kilometre. Karayolu \u00e7evredeki b\u00fct\u00fcn yollar gibi geni\u015fletildi, ula\u015f\u0131m art\u0131k rahat ve h\u0131zl\u0131 ama yol \u00e7evresi eski g\u00fczelli\u011fini kaybetti. Birka\u00e7 y\u0131l \u00f6ncesine kadar dokunacakm\u0131\u015f gibi yak\u0131n olan a\u011fa\u00e7lar art\u0131k uza\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda. Oysa o g\u00fczellikler i\u00e7inden defalarca keyifli yoluculuklar yapm\u0131\u015ft\u0131k.\r
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Solumuzda Bintepeler olarak bilinen mezar t\u00fcm\u00fcl\u00fcsleri. Lidya Krall\u0131\u011f\u0131\u0092n\u0131n mezar t\u00fcm\u00fcl\u00fcsleri \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck ve g\u00f6z al\u0131c\u0131 eserler. \u00c7o\u011fu orta\u00e7a\u011fda talan edilmi\u015f. Antik \u00e7a\u011f tarih\u00e7isi Heredot\u0092a g\u00f6re en b\u00fcy\u00fc\u011f\u00fc 355 metre \u00e7ap\u0131nda, y\u00fcksekli\u011fi 69 metre olan Alyattes Mezar\u0131. \r
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Bintepeler geride kal\u0131rken kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131zdaki tepelerin ard\u0131nda Marmara G\u00f6l\u00fc beliriyor. G\u00f6le ula\u015fmadan g\u00f6l \u00e7evresindeki k\u00f6ylerden Tekelio\u011flu K\u00f6y\u00fc\u0092n\u00fcn iki yan\u0131 f\u0131st\u0131k \u00e7amlar\u0131 olan darac\u0131k yolundan suyun kenar\u0131na kadar ilerledik. K\u00f6y \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131ndaki sahilde bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 tekneleri s\u0131ralanm\u0131\u015f. \u00c7ift\u00e7iler tarlada, zeytin \u00e7apalayanlar, asma budayanlar, bostan\u0131ndaki k\u0131\u015fl\u0131k \u00fcr\u00fcnlerini kontrol edenler, avc\u0131lar… \r
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G\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn berrak mavisinin yans\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 sularda pelikanlar, sumrular, mekeler, \u00f6rdekler, b\u00fct\u00fcn canl\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile do\u011fa. Bizim i\u00e7in o kadar g\u00fczel foto\u011fraf malzemesi var ki. Tekneler, g\u00f6l\u00fcn k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131na demir atm\u0131\u015f teknelerin suya yans\u0131yan g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fclerinin foto\u011fraflar\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ekmeye doyam\u0131yoruz. Uzaktan g\u00f6r\u00fcnen ve suyu yararak gelen bir ba\u015fka bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 teknesi de bize \u00e7ok g\u00fczel g\u00f6rsel malzeme oluyor.\r
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Marmara G\u00f6l\u00fc\u0092n\u00fc pek bilen yoktur. \u00d6nceleri kapal\u0131 bir havzada yer alan, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck dereler ve yer alt\u0131 suyu ile beslenen, mevsimsel, hafif tuzlu bir g\u00f6l iken, 1932-1953 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda yap\u0131lan \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalarla bir rezervuara d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc. G\u00f6l\u00fcn alan\u0131 ortalama 3bin 400 hektar, derinli\u011fi 3-4 metre. G\u00f6l 320 milyon metrek\u00fcpl\u00fck maksimim dolum kapasitesine sadece 1960’larda ula\u015ft\u0131 ve 6 bin 800 hektarl\u0131k bir alan\u0131 kaplad\u0131. \r
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1993 y\u0131l\u0131 yaz mevsiminde ise b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc kurudu. Sular \u00e7ekildik\u00e7e geride kalan verimli topraklar tarlalara d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc. En bereketli \u00fcr\u00fcnlerin al\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir ova haline geldi. Meralar \u00e7o\u011fald\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in hayvanc\u0131l\u0131k da geli\u015fti. Sular \u00e7ekildi\u011finde ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz y\u0131llarda g\u00f6l\u00fcn ortas\u0131na kadar y\u00fcr\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f telef olan deniz varl\u0131klar\u0131na \u00fcz\u00fclm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck.\r
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G\u00f6l alan\u0131nda \u00f6nemli say\u0131da k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck balaban, alaca bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l, pasba\u015f patka, mahmuzlu k\u0131zku\u015fu ve b\u0131y\u0131kl\u0131 sumru ya\u015f\u0131yor. \u00d6zellikle k\u0131\u015f\u0131n, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck karabatak, tepeli pelikan, b\u00fcy\u00fck akbal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l, ang\u0131t, fiyu, elmaba\u015f patka, dikkuyruk ve k\u0131l\u0131\u00e7gaga gibi \u00e7ok say\u0131da su ku\u015fu buraya geliyor. Bahri, karaboyunlu bata\u011fan, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck akbal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l, gri bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l, gece bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l\u0131, erguvani bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l, ka\u015f\u0131k\u00e7\u0131, ku\u011fu, boz kaz, boz \u00f6rdek, ye\u015filba\u015f, \u00e7\u0131kr\u0131k\u00e7\u0131n, elmaba\u015f patka, sakar meke ve uzun baca burada konakl\u0131yor.\r
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Marmara G\u00f6l\u00fc\u0092n\u00fcn 1993 y\u0131l\u0131ndaki gibi kurumas\u0131n\u0131n ve bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n yok olmas\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6nlenmesi i\u00e7in bir s\u00fcredir G\u00f6rdes ve Demirk\u00f6pr\u00fc Baraj\u0131 ile Gediz Nehri\u0092nden su veriliyor. Yoksa kocaman bir tarlaya d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fecek! \r
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Sohbet etti\u011fimiz bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131lar anlat\u0131yor: Marmara G\u00f6l\u00fc do\u011fal halindeyken y\u0131lda 300 tona yak\u0131n bal\u0131k avlan\u0131yormu\u015f. G\u00f6lde su seviyesinin y\u00fckselmesiyle bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l\u0131k da geli\u015fmi\u015f, 400’\u00fcn \u00fczerinde bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 teknesi i\u015flemeye ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f, en y\u00fcksek seviyeye ula\u015f\u0131lan 1963 y\u0131l\u0131nda rekor d\u00fczeyde (963 ton) bal\u0131k avlanm\u0131\u015f. 1993 y\u0131l\u0131nda g\u00f6l\u00fcn kurumas\u0131 sonucu, bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l\u0131k sekt\u00f6r\u00fc tamam\u0131yla \u00e7\u00f6km\u00fc\u015f. Daha sonraki d\u00f6nemde, g\u00f6le yar\u0131m milyondan fazla yavru bal\u0131k b\u0131rak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, av yasa\u011f\u0131 getirilmi\u015f ve su seviyesinin y\u00fckselmesiyle, bal\u0131k stoklar\u0131nda art\u0131\u015f meydana gelmi\u015f. \r
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\u0130lerledik\u00e7e sahili bizden uzakla\u015fan ve yerini verimli arazilere terk eden Marmara G\u00f6l\u00fc\u0092n\u00fc geride b\u0131rak\u0131p Hac\u0131veliler K\u00f6y\u00fc\u0092nde her zaman \u00e7ay i\u00e7ti\u011fimiz kahvehanede soluklan\u0131yoruz.\r
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Yeniden yola \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p, G\u00f6lmarmara \u00fczerinden ilk kez ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz yoldan Akhisar\u0092a ula\u015f\u0131yoruz. Akhisar \u00fczerinden Bal\u0131kesir karayolunda G\u00f6lc\u00fck sapa\u011f\u0131na kadar 83 kilometrelik yolumuz var. H\u0131zla \u00e7o\u011falan zeytinlikleri ve r\u00fczgar t\u00fcrbinlerini keyifle izleyerek G\u00f6lc\u00fck sapa\u011f\u0131na ula\u015ft\u0131k. Bizi S\u0131nd\u0131rg\u0131\u0092ya ula\u015ft\u0131racak en g\u00fczel yollardan biri de bu darac\u0131k, bak\u0131ms\u0131z, yoksul ama o kadar da sevimli yol. Umar\u0131m bu yola el atmazlar, do\u011fall\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bozmazlar.\r
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S\u0131nd\u0131rg\u0131\u0092ya daha bitmesini hi\u00e7 istemedi\u011fimiz 33 kilometrelik yolumuz var. G\u00fczergah \u00fczerinde G\u00f6lc\u00fck, Karakaya, Alacaatl\u0131, Kozlu ve Bay\u0131rl\u0131 k\u00f6yleri yer al\u0131yor. Geni\u015f ve bereketli topraklarla \u00e7evrili bu k\u00f6ylerin insanlar\u0131 yoksul, yoksullu\u011funu payla\u015fan, kendi halinde, konuksever insanlar. Yoksullu\u011fu g\u00f6rmek i\u00e7in evlere bakmak bile yeterli. \r
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Ta\u015f, ah\u015fap, kerpi\u00e7 kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131 bak\u0131ms\u0131z ve eski yap\u0131lar. K\u00f6y sakinleri bu geni\u015f ovan\u0131n ortas\u0131nda yapayaln\u0131z ve terk edilmi\u015f gibi ya\u015famay\u0131 seviyorlar. Sonbahardan kalma g\u00fcne\u015fli, berrak, \u0131\u015f\u0131klarla y\u0131kand\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z bir g\u00fcn, g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fc masmavi. \u00c7at\u0131lar \u0131slak, bir \u00f6nceki g\u00fcnden kalma karlar h\u0131zla eriyor. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck derelerin \u00fczerinden, eski k\u00f6pr\u00fclerden ge\u00e7iyoruz. \r
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Yakla\u015f\u0131k bir saat sonra Kertil Yaylas\u0131\u0092ndan S\u0131nd\u0131rg\u0131 Ovas\u0131\u0092na do\u011fru inen yola kat\u0131l\u0131p S\u0131nd\u0131rg\u0131 \u00c7ay\u0131\u0092n\u0131 ku\u015fatan, yapraklar\u0131 d\u00f6k\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f kavakl\u0131klar\u0131n aras\u0131ndan ge\u00e7iyoruz ama Mand\u0131ra K\u00f6y\u00fc\u0092nde her zaman \u00e7ay\u0131n\u0131 i\u00e7ti\u011fimiz Abdullah\u0092\u0131n kahvehanesi kapal\u0131. Ge\u00e7en gezide de bulamam\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. G\u00fcler y\u00fczl\u00fc, iyi y\u00fcrekli, konuksever dostumuz san\u0131r\u0131m yine pazara gitmi\u015f.\r
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Bizim de alacaklar\u0131m\u0131z var, il\u00e7e merkezinde arac\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 park ettik. S\u0131nd\u0131rg\u0131\u0092da iki pazar var. Biri k\u00f6yl\u00fclerin, di\u011feri belediyenin. Bu pazarlarda ne ararsan\u0131z ucuza bulursunuz. \u0130l\u00e7eye cumartesi g\u00fcnleri canl\u0131l\u0131k getiren bu pazarlarda elma, ayva, kestane, ceviz, \u00e7e\u015fit \u00e7e\u015fit otlar, k\u00f6y evlerinde \u00fcretilmi\u015f yo\u011furtlar, k\u00f6y ekmekleri, peynir \u00e7e\u015fitleri, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcc\u00fck tarlalarda yeti\u015ftirildi\u011fi belli p\u0131rasa, lahana, kereviz, karnabahar sat\u0131l\u0131yor. Al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f etmeden \u00f6nce \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131 i\u00e7indeki d\u00f6rt masas\u0131 bulunan k\u00f6fteci d\u00fckkan\u0131nda karn\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 doyurduk. Hesap 13 TL. \u015eaka gibi, de\u011fil mi? Pazar al\u0131\u015fveri\u015fimizi bitirdikten sonra k\u00f6pr\u00fc ba\u015f\u0131ndaki f\u0131r\u0131ndan k\u00f6y ekme\u011fi ald\u0131k. \r
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D\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc Kertil Yaylas\u0131\u0092ndan yapt\u0131k. Son ya\u011f\u0131\u015ftan kalan karlar\u0131n \u00fczerinde gezindik, keyfini \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131k. Her zamanki gibi \u0130zmirli olarak karda an\u0131 foto\u011fraf\u0131 \u00e7ektirdik. Gece karanl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda \u0130zmir\u0092e d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f yapt\u0131k, \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczdeki g\u00fcnlerde Dursunbey – De\u011firmene\u011frek\u0092e yapaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z geziyi konu\u015ftuk yol boyunca. \r
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\u00c7ad\u0131r kuramayaca\u011f\u0131z do\u011fal olarak, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc oraya ya\u011fan kar\u0131n alt\u0131nda \u00e7ad\u0131rlar\u0131m\u0131z kaybolur gider. O nedenle orman evinde kalaca\u011f\u0131z yerlerimiz ayr\u0131ld\u0131 bile…

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\u0093\u00d6m\u00fcr biter yol bitmez\u0094 s\u00f6z\u00fc san\u0131r\u0131m bizim gibi gezginler i\u00e7in s\u00f6ylenmi\u015f. Ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz y\u0131l ilkbaharda ba\u015flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z gezilerimizi, k\u0131\u015f bast\u0131rana kadar s\u00fcrd\u00fcrd\u00fck. Son gezimizi ekim ay\u0131nda Domani\u00e7\u0092in […]<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[22],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/kentyasam.com.tr\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/64041"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/kentyasam.com.tr\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/kentyasam.com.tr\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kentyasam.com.tr\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kentyasam.com.tr\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=64041"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/kentyasam.com.tr\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/64041\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/kentyasam.com.tr\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=64041"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kentyasam.com.tr\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=64041"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kentyasam.com.tr\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=64041"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}